1981 Jeep CJ7 Rolling Chassis w/ Title
- Location: Dayton, Kentucky, United States
- Condition: Used
- Make: Jeep
- Model: CJ
- Trim: Base
- Year: 1981
- Mileage: 106,951
- VIN: 1JCCM87A0BT056261
- Engine size: 258
- Drive type: Manual
- Vehicle Title: Clear
1981 Jeep CJ description
Newer plate metal has been welded into the back rear driver side frame rail and where the body mounts go. After that a few coats of Chassis Saver were applied and it was spray painted black. New stainless steel fuel lines were bent and installed and new stainless steel brake lines were also installed. New brakes front and rear were put on too; the Jeep has not been driven since.
New parts were put in the Warn hubs. I believe the axles are 2.73 gear ratio and the rear is open, based on the code 'AA' stamped on the rear axle. The axles are narrow track. As far as I can tell, the wheels are OEM but the PO spray painted them black. There is a full size spare and wheel that is included with the four on the chassis. The tires are dry rotted; I wouldn't drive on them. The OME 2.5” conversion suspension lift (medium duty springs) has been installed as well. Since installing the lift, the Jeep has only been rolled in and out of the garage when working on it.
Front and rear driveshafts are OEM. New U-joints were installed when the Jeep was purchased about 8 years ago. The Dana 300 worked and shifted fine the last time I drove the Jeep. The T-4 transmission originally came out of an '83 Scrambler. When I bought it, it had been rebuilt and had approximately 1,200 miles on it. It shifted smooth the last time I drove the Jeep. The bell housing and flywheel came off the original 258 I-6. The 258 I-6 that is on the chassis came out of a '90 Wrangler and had approximately 73,000 miles on it. I had a Weber carburetor on it but sold it. I still have the original 2-barrel but it needs an air box. The engine ran great the last time I drove the Jeep. I have most of the parts to do a TeamRush upgrade to the engine; I'll include them with the Jeep. I have a new thermostat housing and oil pressure sender for the engine. I've also got another fuel filter and the OEM power steering pump and reservoir. I also put a new clutch kit in when I put the newer engine in (around 2010) and have a NIB clutch bellcrank kit.
The 4wd deluxe fiberglass tub is in good condition. There is one spot on the tub that is cracked; it's where the top bolt of the driver side fender screws into the firewall. The tub has been mocked up on the frame and the body mount holes have been drilled. I cut the rubber pucks to give about 1” of body lift. I have Grade 8 bolts to mount the tub to the frame but the tub is just sitting on the frame right now. I've also drilled the holes for the steering column, master cylinder assembly and fuse block. You need to drill holes for the tranny and pedal linkage. I will include the clutch and brake pedal assembly and the gas pedal. I am also including a roll cage that I bought from Koz Offroad but never assembled. It includes the full cage and tie in kits. The picture of the 6 bars lying on the ground only shows the part of the cage not in boxes. Two main bars are still wrapped up and the rest of the kits are in two separate boxes.
I'm also including various odds and ends that I have left, such as left over brake lines, a new and the original master cylinder, what's left of the Totally Stainless hardware kit I bought, various bolts, nuts and washers I bought, the steering wheel, speedo cable, the original steel hood and braces, firewall/fender braces, gas tank/straps, skid plate, etc.